To reach Halong Bay, I took a three-hour ride from Hanoi to Halong City - a tiny spot getting mentioned in a very detailed local map just as a starting line for both amateur and professional explorers who come to see that particular one of the UNESCO Heritage Sites.


Bhaya Cruises is a respectable company - not the most luxurious one, I'll have to say - and they will take us to an impeccable experience of having a breakfast among the majestic karst formations.

My preferred way to sail around the Bay was by boarding one of the Bhaya Cruises, a remake of a classic imperial ship being used by Emperor-cum-Traveller Khai Dinh (1885-1925). With twenty fully-equipped cabins, a diner, and a relaxing sundeck, the cruise ship is a perfect honeymoon ride to enjoy karst formations all over the 434 square-kilometers area.


Vung Vieng Fishermen Village opened my eyes that there's always another lifestyle somewhere out there.

Honestly, after the first few weirdly-shaped islets - most of them unhabitable - I just didn't care anymore to guess what's the name of each of them. The overnight trip was made more interesting when we visited the floating Vung Vieng fishermen village. I couldn't imagine what it's like to live there, but yes! They do live there. They have working phone line, television, internet, and a floating school, too. (I wonder what a fashion runway would look like there.)


The beautiful Halong Bay, and the full-of-surprise Sung Sot Cave.

We anchored somewhere in the dark to have an overnight rest. I couldn't care less to recall the stale dinner, but the breakfast was unforgettable. No, not because of what was in my plate, but mostly because of what was around me. Majestic karst formations guarded us in a misty, and foggy morning. It was surreal.


The water in Halong Bay was emerald clear. Combine it with a perfect blue sky, and you'll get a sampler of Paradise on Earth.

Before we headed back to the city, we visited Sung Sot Cave - a dramatically lit, large grotto that has three chambers. Quite an interesting walk we had, with less physical challenge than running on your treadmill. We reached Halong City back at noon.

Visit Halong Bay once, and that'll be enough. It's a unique honeymoon trip, but that's all. Photos by Ve Handojo.

Water Puppet is a must-see show in Hanoi, while a trip to the peaceful Temple of Literature is among the to-do list. They have a very nice souvenir shop there.

Upon arriving in a cool morning, I found a similar atmosphere in Hanoi with the small towns in Java, such as Malang, Blitar, and Madiun. What makes it different is the French colonial touch in the architecture. My hotel, Sofitel Metropole Hanoi, is the embodiment of the chic influence. Pretty in white with fresh green louvres, it is considered the belle of the city.


A father and his daughter is enjoying the serenity of Hoan Kiem Lake. A happy toddler is having a free ride in a park.

Hanoi life is sprung from Hoan Kiem Lake around which people start their day with Taichi. Meanwhile, The Old Quarter is a maze filled with treasures like excellent lacquer paintings, homeware, and souvenirs. Fine silk at bargain prices are hunted not only by tourists, but also locals. Every evening, The Old Quarter is crowded, chaotic, noisy - it's simply alive. A sip of tasty Vietnamese coffee would be the perfect way to conclude a superb adventure in this area.


The teens practice breakdance, little kids roller-blading, and their folks playing badminton - all in Hanoi's cute and clean parks.

What I value most about Hanoi is the outdoor oriented lifestyle practiced by simply everyone in this city. No flashy shopping malls to keep the friendly Hanoians inside a so-called "comfort zone". Hanoians are not exposed to international brands or chain stores. They are all out in the streets; roller-skating, break-dancing, eating, playing badminton, having a first date, and so on.


Find Kem Trang Tien where Hanoians go crazy over cheap ice creams. In one of the little streets in The Old Quarter there is Bún Bo Nam Bo that sells only one meal: a portion of super-delicious phó with beef.

Go to Hanoi for the original phó, and the water puppet show, and the launching pad to Halong Bay.

NOTE: I flew AirAsia to go there, and it was a bad choice. They made me stop in a nonsense city called Kuala Lumpur for hours, and I had to get stuck in a lousier-than-shit-hole Low Cost Carrier Terminal in Kuala Lumpur International Airport. It was a traumatic experience.

Photos by Ve Handojo

Grab one, grab one!

Alexander McQueen | D&G | Raf Simons | Dior Homme | Hermes | Gareth Pugh | D&G | Gareth Pugh - men.style.com

Black is classic in the hands of Alexander McQueen, Raf Simons, Dior, and Hermes. Revisiting Oliver Twist, Alexander McQueen revives the power that survives through the age of depression. Two-toned Raf Simons jacket gives effective answer to being creatively timeless. D&G gives new weights to the word "tux", and gets tough when it comes to street wear jacket. My favorite is the what-if-Tim-Burton-remakes-The-Predator look that Gareth Pugh suggests to make the upcoming fall gloomy and glam at the same time.


Balenciaga | Diane von Furstenberg | Louis Vuitton | Oscar de la Renta | Louis Vuitton | Prada | Oscar de la Renta - style.com

Girls just wanna have fun, and ladies just wanna be glam, no matter how bad the global economy weather is projected to still be hanging. Balenciaga dresses smart women to the office, while Diane von Furstenberg gets sexy. Louis Vuitton suggests some ruffles, while Prada gets heavy. My personal favorite is the ever elegant Oscar de la Renta with killer heels.

I was in Malang with fellow traveler Kenny Santana in 2003, and we were very not very well trained, even for a domestic destination. One thing that lead us from one place to another was our demanding taste buds. We went to the nostalgic Toko Oen, and Melati restaurant in Hotel Tugu Malang for its tomato fried rice.



This time, I checked out some of the landmarks of Malang, including the city's monument surrounded by a pretty garden, the Church of Kayutangan, the dazzling Jalan Ijen that has become the envy of other cities across the country, and the beautiful Church of Ijen.



I've also explored Malang's classic and brand new eateries. The hyper-rustic Bethania serves A-class Indonesian food, and has been popular from generation to generation. In contrast, Cube in Batu highland area is ultra-modern, posh, and serves - of all things, in this bone-chilling climate - homemade gelato. The interior reinterprets the naivety of kindergarten scene, and it goes hand-in-hand with the tasty gelato, and toys and interior products sold there. They also have amazing flowers that look like plastic candies!

Another new player is Taman Indie - a theme park displaying Indonesia's different kind of traditional diners, and surely the menu and the service is of the same theme. Meanwhile, Hotel Tugu Malang has a new joint call Und Corner selling local snacks, coffee, tea, and bread.



But the overall champion is right across Und Corner; Java Dancer is brought by three hardcore coffee addicts. David studied caffeine in US, and Hendri gained his certificate as a Lavazza barista in Sydney, while Andri is the most notorious cupper in Indonesia blacklisted by many coffee joints. Together, they brew what seems to be the best cup in Indonesia. Their kopi luwak - the most expensive kind of coffee in the world - is deemed "much better than other examples I have tasted," by John Sherwood, the founding member of Specialty Coffee Association of Europe. The atmosphere is relaxing, the coffee is kicking, and the price is the best bargain ever - a cup of house blend at Rp 12,000 (US$ 1), and 30 grams of kopi luwak at Rp 275,000 (US$ 24). With no ambition to conquer the world, Java Dancer gives the right flavour of Indonesia, beating down Starbucks by one back hand, pretty effortlessly.

Garuda Airlines (starting January 16, 2009), Sriwijaya Air, and Batavia Air fly one hour to Malang (East Java) from Jakarta. Photos by Ve Handojo.